“The moment it feels extreme, you fucked up.”

By » Thu, August 9 2012
5794561710 64a81486a6 b The moment it feels extreme, you fucked up.

Cropped out: 91 centimeter drop to hard, hard concrete. (img by Beth Jusino)

The (arguable) epitome of climbing is free soloing: climbing without any safety equipment, harness, etc. Just you, your chalk bag, and the rock. On the one hand, you’re free. On the other, a slip means you probably fucking die.

I’ve seen dozens of amazing free solo climb videos… including Alex Honnold’s ~2,000ft Half Dome ascent, but, like parkour videos, it’s tough to get a sense of how much preparation goes into a free solo climb.

I finally found a video that at least tries to tell you how much preparation a free solo climb takes.

You can skip to about 4:00, but don’t skip further than that. Peter Croft has some very important things to say about the huge amount of preparation (5+ years) that went into a 2 minute climb that he makes look dead easy.

A lot of the contemporary soloing media… will show a lot of jaw-dropping images without any sort of backstory to it, without any sort of caveats… The big thing about this route is there’s a whole bunch that went into it. And that the moment it feels extreme, you fucked up, basically, right? So it’s like it should feel really easy,and that’s the reason it did take me… I mean, I could have soloed it five years ago, but it would have felt weird.

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